Last year it was announcement fur jackets. The year before that it was culottes and capes. This season, among the biggest trends strutting down the runway at New York Fashion week’s resistance, also no–it’s not only in the form of a bunch of hooks. In light of the election of Donald Trump, it seems that parts of the style world have really comprised themes of protest, feminism, and unity into their work. It’s written round the chests of versions. It’s the soundtrack. It’s the message designers are attempting to get across.
Only yesterday, designer Mara Hoffman invited the co-chairs of the Women’s March–Linda Sarsour, Tamika Mallory, Bob Bland, also Carmen Perez–to send a message.
Tracy Reese’d four female poets read their work as guests wandered through essentially a gallery of her designs. Naeem Khan also went the merry route, playing a recording of Maya Angelou reading her proposal “Individual Family” towards the end of his show before going on to criticize Trump’s immigration ban backstage after the show was over.
One more thing that’s popping up on runways all over the area are announcement tees and other articles of clothing along with phrases written on these. Hillary Clinton supporter Prabal Gurung sent his models down the runway wearing shirts emblazoned with different feminist and activist statements such as “The future is feminine,” as well as the very recent “Still, she awakens,” as a cover of John Lennon’s “Imagine” played. Cinq à Sept handed out tees that said “I love everybody” on these and versions at Mexican-born designer Raul Solis’ show wore underwear with lines such as “Fuck Your Wall” and “No Ban No Wall” handwritten on the back.
Public School sent models down the runway with #MAGA-esque hats and harvest shirts that read “Create America New York.” A model in Christian Siriano’s show wore a shirt that read “People Are People”–but the rest of Siriano’s show truly embraced the topics of unity, diversity, and inclusiveness, featuring plus-sized versions and versions of color.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America is dispersing pink hooks (they are magnetic so as to not poke holes in all the fancy clothing) that examine”Fashion stands using Planned Parenthood,” with different designers as well as Anna Wintour herself have been seemn wearing the pin proudly. Jonathan Simkhai pledged to donate $5 into Planned Parenthood for every chair in the room at his display. On Sunday, a charity show for AnaOno Intimates, which specializes in designs for most girls affected by the illness, featured breast cancer survivors as models, some of whom bared their mastectomy discoloration around the runway.
It can be difficult to distill what activism and inclusivity appears like in the fashion world, which is really exclusive so far as race, body type, and course go. What use is a designer featuring poets and activist topics if their work does not arrive in dimensions bigger than the usual 12 or can be unaffordable for the more vulnerable people in our society? Putting tees with quotations that are such runs the chance of producing activism into a style trend, which may undermine the work people are currently doing.
Nevertheless, there is surely some comfort knowing the most privileged among us are just as pissed about our president since we all are — and never afraid to put it on the runway that.